This is a good place to climb for people who have never climbed at other gyms (Movement fka the Cliffs in NYC, Goat in NJ, Allez Up in Montreal, Momentum in SLC, Earth Treks in CO, the list goes on..).
If you are an experienced lead climber indoors at other gyms or outdoor sport (up to 5.12)… you will probably take serious issue with what this gym has to offer you. After 6 months of climbing at this gym, I’ve come up with this list of reasons why this gym is lacking:
- Lead routes are NOT forerun with a lead rope, only top rope, so the rope placement and therefore its safety is not factored in during setting. Shorter climbers who have to dyno may get their feet caught in the rope because of this issue (has happened to me multiple times).
- Ignoring the lead rope and clipping during setting also means that there is excessive rope drag sometimes.
- Hold density (number of holds on the wall) is quite low compared to the better gyms named above, so alternative beta is not welcome—particularly problematic for climbers whose body types don’t match those of the setters. This boils down to a gym that doesn’t offer much in terms of accessible climbing.
- Lastly, the routes are consistently sandbagged, so if you’re just getting into ropes climbing and hop on a 5.8 at this gym, you’re actually getting on a route that the other/better gyms would rate 10b or 10c… newbies be warned. Don’t get injured.
Lots of room for improvement for the only ropes gym less than an hour from the Gunks.